TEREKEME

Terekeme

The Last Nomads of Azerbaijan

Terekeme is a term used in Azerbaijan to describe semi-nomadic cattle breeders who follow a traditional pattern of seasonal migration. During the summer months, they move their herds to high mountain pastures, while in winter, they relocate to the steppes of central Azerbaijan, where the climate is milder and there is sufficient fodder for livestock.

The wintering grounds, known as “qishlaq” in Azerbaijani, serve as seasonal settlements where several families live in small houses. During the Soviet era, these qishlaqs were part of state-run farms. However, after Azerbaijan gained independence, the farms were privatized. Many of them were acquired by private businesses, often unrelated to the Terekeme, who now work as hired herders. Despite these changes, some qishlaqs remain under the ownership of Terekeme families, preserving their ancestral way of life.

This photo series was captured in one such Terekeme-owned qishlaq in the Gobustan region. Gobustan, widely known for its mud volcanoes and ancient rock carvings, is a rugged, hilly area carved by deep ravines, located 60 kilometers south of Baku, the capital of Azerbaijan. The region’s relatively mild winters and accessible pastures make it an ideal location for livestock wintering.

The qishlaq featured in this series is called Haji Molla Veli. It has been used for centuries by nomadic families belonging to the Jabirli tribe. These families originate from the village of Arabshalbash, which they also refer to as Jabirli. They are primarily professional cattle breeders leading a semi-nomadic existence.

I had the opportunity to live with a Terekeme family in this settlement and in neighboring qishlaqs, where cattle breeders from the Jabirli tribe also reside. Since 2018, I have been periodically visiting them at different times of the year, documenting their way of life as it gradually fades under the pressures of modernization and urban expansion.